Shipping your EU‑built motorhome across the Atlantic is the adventure of a lifetime – but American pedestals deliver 120 V / 60 Hz instead of the 230 V you’re used to. The cure is an RV Converter (a dual‑direction step‑down/step‑up transformer). In this guide you’ll learn:
- exactly why a transformer is mandatory,
- why the 50/60 Hz difference hardly matters nowadays,
- which outlet types you’ll meet and what accessories to pack.
Product note The WTI series by Bronson Energy is referenced as a proven example
1 Europe vs. North America
European pitches feed 230 volts at 50 Hz through blue CEE sockets. In contrast, U.S. campgrounds supply 120 volts at 60 Hz via NEMA outlets (TT‑30 or 14‑50). That lower voltage is the show‑stopper: plug a 230‑V appliance into 120 V and it will either refuse to start or draw excessive current and overheat. A step‑down transformer restores the correct voltage and protects your gear.
The plug shapes differ just as much as the numbers. Live is black instead of brown, neutral is white, and ground is green – easy to mix up when you wire things yourself. Finally, U.S. pedestals can deliver up to 30 amps (single‑phase) or 50 amps split‑phase, so you’ll have plenty of current for A/C and induction cooking once the voltage is fixed.
Bottom line: Voltage mismatch is the real enemy, not frequency. Bring a transformer and you’re 90 % of the way there.
2 50 Hz vs. 60 Hz – Why It Rarely Matters
Most modern appliances are frequency‑agnostic. The table below separates the worry‑free gear from the true outliers:
| Device type | Behaviour on 50 Hz instead of 60 Hz | Example(s) |
|---|---|---|
| Switch‑mode power supplies & chargers | rated 47–63 Hz, deliver full output | laptop, phone charger |
| Resistive loads | heat output unaffected by frequency | immersion heater, water boiler |
| Inverter‑driven motors & A/C | built‑in electronics create their own frequency; performance unchanged | modern roof A/C, variable‑speed compressor fridge |
| Vintage synchronous/reluctance motors | speed drops ≈ 17 %; prolonged use not advised | 1970s record player, analog wall clock |
Bottom line: For 90 % of RV systems a voltage converter is enough; a dedicated frequency converter only makes sense for niche vintage gear.
3 Choosing the Right Step‑Down Converter (Sizing Examples)
Before you order a transformer, total up the continuous wattage of every 230 V appliance you want to run at the same time and add roughly 30 % headroom. Off‑the‑shelf RV
transformers come in several kVA sizes – the table below matches common ratings to realistic payloads in an RV.
| Continuous power* | Typical simultaneous 230 V loads | Example RV setup |
| 2 400 W (≈ 3 kVA) | Espresso machine (1 200 W) • laptop chargers (150 W) • LED lighting | Compact camper‑van with no roof A/C |
| 4 000 W (≈ 5 kVA) | Roof A/C 13.5 k BTU (1 300 W) • microwave (1 000 W) • coffee maker (900 W) | Mid‑size motorhome, single A/C |
| 4 800 W (≈ 6 kVA) | Roof A/C (1 300 W) • induction hob (2 000 W) • fridge (150 W) • chargers | Family coach with electric cooktop |
| 6 400 W (≈ 8 kVA) | Two roof A/C units (2 600 W) • induction hob (2 000 W) • kettle (1 500 W) | Large RV or fifth‑wheel with dual A/C |
| 8 000 W (≈ 10 kVA) | Commercial espresso machine (2 500 W) • fridge (200 W) • waffle iron (2 000 W) • LED lighting | Food‑truck / mobile workshop trailer |
Product note The WTI series by Bronson Energy offers various capacities to cover your needs
4 US Campground Outlets – What to Expect
TT-30 (30 A / 120 V)
The TT-30 connector is by far the most common power outlet you’ll find at U.S. campgrounds—roughly 95 % of sites are equipped with one. It’s a sturdy, three-prong socket (hot, neutral, ground) that delivers up to 30 amps at 120 volts. For European campers, you’ll need a 30 A shore-power cable with a TT-30 plug to mate directly with the pedestal. This setup easily handles all your standard onboard needs—lighting, device charging, and smaller kitchen appliances.
NEMA 14-50 (50 A split-phase / 2 × 120 V)
At premium “full hook-up” resorts, you’ll often find NEMA 14-50 outlets. These are split-phase sockets providing two separate 120 V legs for a combined capacity of up to 50 amps (about 12 kW total). That extra power is perfect for air conditioners, large refrigerators, or induction cooktops. Since most European rigs don’t come with a 50 A plug, a “dog-bone” adapter (14-50 to TT-30) lets you tap into this high-capacity source safely.
NEMA 5-15/20 (15–20 A / 120 V)
If neither of the above is available, you might only find a standard household outlet—a NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 receptacle rated at 15–20 amps, 120 volts. This should be treated as a last-resort option, suitable only for charging batteries or running small devices. A simple European-Schuko-to-NEMA 5-15 adapter will let you connect your laptop chargers or phone power bricks, but be mindful not to exceed the outlet’s modest capacity.
5 Essential Gear Checklist – Must‑Have vs. Nice‑to‑Have
| Item | Why you need it |
| 30‑A shore cord (TT‑30) | Fits the most common U.S. pedestal |
| Dog‑bone adapter 14‑50 → TT‑30 | Lets you draw power from 50‑A pedestals |
| Step‑down transformer – e.g. Bronson Energy WTI series | Converts 120 V to 230 V for all European onboard circuits |
| RV EMS / Surge protector | Shields against mis‑wired pedestals, brown‑outs & surges |
| Portable GFCI / RCD | Adds life‑saving ground‑fault protection when the site lacks it |
| Item | Benefit |
| 50‑A shore cord (14‑50) | Allows full‑current hook‑ups at premium sites |
| Polarity tester + plug‑in voltmeter | Quick health check of any pedestal |
| Spare CEE → Schuko adapter | Handy on the return trip in Europe |
6 Conclusion
A USA Converter is the single most important upgrade for an EU camper in North America. Solve the voltage gap with a transformer, add an EMS and the right adapters, and you can plug in anywhere from Florida Keys to Alaska.